Konica ft-1 motor manual

Self-Timer: The button is located on the top of the camera by the shutter speed dial. However, although AR bodies will meter these lenses, using them is a bit cumbersome.

The FT-1 was not intended to compete in the professional class of cameras. However, when compared to its direct competition at similar price points, the FT-1 presented an attractive option with its integrated motor drive, especially for legacy users with a stable of AR lenses. If you enjoy using Konica AR lenses for film photography, you are unfortunately stuck with Konica bodies. In my view, the FT-1 is the best option, unless the sound of an automatic motor drive would somehow ruin your photography.

While many Konica aficionados would alternatively suggest the bulky and mechanical Konica Autoreflex T3, I am generally not a fan of that generation of SLRs.

Some people just prefer cameras with mechanical shutters, and there is nothing you can say or do to change their minds. Aside from the gasket issue, which will need to be addressed on nearly all FT-1s, once you have that sorted, you should be good to go for a long time. Notify of. I've fixed 2 of them so far in the same manner. Both work perfectly now after decades of slumber. I have one of these, a black one, and it has been a great camera for me.

Uses batteries that are easy to find. A fety usable Kibica camera. I have bought many of these cameras on ebay in the past in not working condition. All I wanted was the lens flange, but every time I received a camera, it was in such nice shape, I hated to scrap it out. The service manual is readily available, so every time I received one of these gems, I took it apart and found they all had a common problem that is an easy fix. In all six cases, the problem was exactly the same.

The electronics inside is mounted on maybe a half dozen flexible printed circuit boards. The boards are interconnected by a small flap with bare contacts that is clamped to bare contacts on the other board.

They put a grease on the contacts, I suppose to keep out moisture and corrosion, but over time, that grease turned out to be mildly corrosive itself, and the contact points turn green and loose their connection. If you are mechanical, have the patience to take things apart without forcing anything, and don't mind working on small things an optivisor or even the drug store reading glasses is a big help get yourself a service manual ebay and try it out.

This is truly a wonderful camera, and dead ones are ultra cheap. The light meter is extremely accurate and I have not get a wrongly exposed shot. Finally, the motor driver is excellent, which will move the frame to the next shot automatically. However, there is no rewind button so manual cranking is required. I do not understand the hype of Pentax and Canon over Konica, which is great because the prices are still affordable for Konica lens.

Well… the really good ones the one marked with UC are not affordable, but all other Hexanon lens are still easy to find and can be had for a few dollars. Until then, all hail the Konica! You must be logged in to post a comment. They also have a very similar layout of controls on the top deck: The shutter speed dial is in the same place, but the film speed adjustment has been relocated to the base of the film rewind crank, where the exposure compensation dial is also to be found.

At the base of the shutter speed dial is a toggle with three positions: On, off and exposure memory lock. To the right of the shutter speed dial is the shutter release button and the single vs continuous shooting switch. Aperture values, as well as all other indicators, such as over or under exposure, manual operation and battery condition, are indicated by means of LEDs. These include DOF preview, shutter speed display in the viewfinder, and mirror pre-fire.

At this point, the user has to choose the desired aperture setting on the flash - either f5.